Triora, the village of witches

Triora, an ancient village nestled in the Argentina Valley, where every corner tells of ancient traditions, legends of witches and magic

This village nestled in Argentina Valley, just a half-hour drive from Arma di Taggia, smells of good bread and ancient stories.
In Triora, every corner tells stories of striae and basue, of witches and magic. In 1588, several women from Triora were victims of one of the bloodiest witchcraft trials in Liguria. Everything is documented in the documents on display at the Ethnographic and Witchcraft Museum.

The House of Witches

In Triora, the place where witches (or rather, “bàzure,” as they are called here) gathered for their demonic sabbaths still exists today: the Cabotina, just outside the historic center. Some women were tried for witchcraft between 1587 and 1589. Perhaps these were ancient pagan rites or folk medicine practices that still survive today, but collective irrationality led some girls to be accused of spells, plagues, cattle theft, and child kidnapping, creating the most important witchcraft trial of the 16th century. Many of the accused confessed under torture and were imprisoned; some died. The trial records and historical documents are preserved in the Triora Museum of Ethnography and Witchcraft.

Mystery and art

Strolling through the village along the narrow streets, beneath vaults and arches that seem carved into the rock, and through the dark caves of ruined houses, is like stepping back in time. Every corner displays signs of the past. It’s a place to lose yourself, gazing up at all its architectural beauty. The slate portals, in fact, are another marvel of Triora: from the Gothic portal (12th century) of the Collegiate Church to those of the noble palaces, with the symbols of the families chiseled away in the post-French Revolutionary period, the carved architraves, the abraded marble, the bas-reliefs on black stone or slate, and the fascinating sculptures.

Magic of taste

Visiting this ancient village is also a true pleasure for the palate. Among the typical products, try Triora bread: dark and homemade, made with flour and bran, it is part of the 37 Breads of Italy association. It is delicious spread with an ancient mountain cheese: bruss or bruzzo, a ricotta fermented with herbs and spices for a slightly spicy flavor.