Ice creams originating in Liguria: from Pànera to Paciugo, specialities worth trying
Discover traditional Ligurian ice creams: from Genoa’s ‘Pànera’ to Portofino’s ‘Paciugo’, right through to new flavours to enjoy amidst the sea, villages and footpaths.
When you think of Liguria, you immediately conjure up images of pesto, focaccia and the scent of the sea. But the region also boasts a long tradition of cold desserts and artisanal ice cream, with recipes that reflect the history and identity of the area. Some of the most popular specialities are the Genoese Pànera, the Paciugo , which originated in Portofino, and the famous Pinguino– true icons of Ligurian cuisine. Alongside these great classics, in recent years the creativity of master ice-cream makers has given rise to new flavours inspired by local specialities, from Genoese basil to Chinotto di Savona, right through to flavours made with pine nuts, honey and Sassello amaretti. And there’s no shortage of citrus and Riviera fruit sorbets, perfect for hot summer’s days. A delicious heritage that combines tradition and innovation, turning ice cream into yet another way to discover Liguria through its flavours.
Pànera,Genoa’s iconic semifreddo
One of the most popular traditional Ligurian specialities is the Pànera, the famous coffee semifreddo that originated in Genoa.
The name comes from a dialectal contraction of ‘panna nera’ and refers to the colour the cream takes on after coffee has been added. Its origins date back to at least the mid-19th century, and the recipe already appears in Genoese cookery books of the time. According to one of the most widespread legends, the Pànera was created by accident when a shop boy spilled some coffee into the whipped cream, giving rise to a dessert that was destined to become a symbol of the city. More than just a simple coffee ice cream, Pànera is a semifreddo with a soft, creamy texture, traditionally made with cream, coffee and sugar. Even today, every ice-cream parlour has its own version, and the original recipe remains shrouded in mystery.
Pànera is a real institution in Genoa and can be enjoyed in numerous historic ice-cream parlours in the city centre and in the neighbourhoods overlooking the sea. Boccadasse, where the historic Gelateria Amedeo claims to serve one of the most famous versions, is a must-visit destination, alongside the cafés in the historic centre and the ice-cream parlours along the Ligurian Riviera that continue to offer this timeless, traditional flavour.
Paciugo, the sundae created in Portofino
Colourful and packed with ingredients, the Paciugo takes its name from the Ligurian word meaning ‘mess’. Its origins date back to the 1920s, when Lina Repetto, owner of the Caffè Excelsior in Portofino, created a sundae with ice cream, cream, fruit and grenadine syrup. The recipe quickly won over locals and tourists alike, becoming one of the signature desserts of the Ligurian summer.
Paciugo is closely linked to the Gulf of Tigullio. Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure, Rapallo and Camogli are some the places where you can still enjoy this holiday classic. After a stroll along the seafront or a hike along the trails of Portofino Park, treating yourself to a Paciugo is one of the most enjoyable ways to cool off and round off a day spent exploring the area, amidst the sea, nature and local traditions.
One interesting fact about Ligurian culture: the term Pacciûgo also features in the traditional Genoese nativity scene, where Pacciûgo and Pacciûga are two folk characters depicted as a lively, comical couple. A curious reference that shows just how much this word – associated with the idea of a colourful and cheerful medley – has been part of Liguria’s collective imagination and traditions for centuries.
Il Pinguino ligure: a delightful break combining culture and the sea
One of the most popular specialities is the Pinguino, the famous chocolate-coated ice lolly. Its origins are a matter of debate, and it is generally associated with the historic Pepino ice-cream parlour in Turin, which registered the trademark in 1939. However, Liguria also claims its own tradition linked to this dessert: according to the story passed down by Gerolamo Boero, the long-standing owner of Gelateria Giumin in Nervi, one of the first local versions was created using steel moulds and whipped cream dipped in melted chocolate.
Both simple and delicious, the Pinguino has, over time, become one of the iconic ice creams of the Ligurian summer, perfect for enjoying whilst strolling along the seafront or during a visit to the region’s cities of art. In Genoa, for example, it can be a pleasant break between a visit to the Museum osf Strada Nuova, a tour of Palazzo Reale or a stroll through the narrow streets of the historic centre. In Santa Margherita Ligure you can find it at the Gelateria Centrale. A fresh and light-hearted way to treat yourself to a moment of indulgence amidst culture, history and views of the sea.
Between tradition and innovation: the new flavours of Liguria
Alongside these great classics, the creativity of master ice-cream makers continues to bring new flavours to life, inspired by local specialities, creating new taste experiences. Dishes inspired by the region’s iconic products are becoming increasingly popular, from Genoese basil to Chinotto di Savona, right through to ice cream made with Ligurian honey, Sassello amaretti, Canestrelletto and Busalla Rose syrup, which is reminiscent of one of the most iconic desserts of the Scrivia Valley. Alongside these are fruit and citrus sorbets from the Riviera, made with lemons, mandarins, peaches, apricots and figs – perfect for cooling down on hot summer’s days.
From Ponente to Levante, a stop at an ice-cream parlour becomes an original way to discover the area through its flavours: after a day at the beach in Alassio or Sestri Levante, a stroll through the narrow streets of Genoa, a trip to the villages inland or a hike overlooking the sea, treating yourself to a cone or a tub of ice cream means embarking on a little journey through Ligurian tradition, creativity and identity.