Between the sea and the oven: Ligurian focaccia from Ponente to Levante
Flower Riviera, Genoa and surroundings, Gulf of Poets, Palm Riviera, Portofino and the Tigullio
A journey through Liguria’s most iconic focaccia: seaside villages, authentic traditions and flavours from Ponente to Levante.
Focaccia is a serious business in Liguria. It is not just a culinary speciality: it is a source of genuine regional pride, a symbol of identity that is part of everyday life from Ponente to Levante. Crispy, soft, thin or filled – every region has its own version, passed down through historic bakeries, family recipes and the aroma of freshly baked bread. Not just the iconic breakfast washed down with a cappuccino, but a genuine way of life. And in Genoa, you’d be in for trouble if you simply called it focaccia: here, you strictly order a “slerfa” of fügassa, perhaps still warm and dripping with oil, straight from the local bakery’s bag
From the more rustic versions found in the hinterland to the renowned delicacies enjoyed by the sea, focaccia tells the story of Liguria through simple, traditional flavours that are deeply rooted in its culture. This route winds its way through the entire region, following in the footsteps of one of the most beloved traditional Ligurian specialities: a journey through coastal villages, historic towns and scenic sea views, where every stop offers the authentic flavour of ‘fügassa’.
Green Fugasùn, Dolceacqua
The green fugasùn of the inland areas
Amidst cobbled alleyways, medieval arches and hills covered in olive trees, Dolceacqua is home to one of the most authentic specialities of the Ligurian culinary tradition: the fugasùn verde. This rustic focaccia from the inland region is made with a soft dough enriched with seasonal herbs, Swiss chard and, at times, courgettes or spring onions – simple ingredients that reflect the peasant cuisine of western Liguria. Soft on the inside, slightly crispy on the outside and fragrant with extra virgin olive oil, it’s a must-try for anyone wanting to discover what to eat in Liguria, amongst historic villages and authentic flavours. Regarded as one of the most beautiful villages in Liguria, Dolceacqua captivates visitors with its medieval alleyways, artisan shops and the picturesque Doria Castle. Also not to be missed is the famous medieval bridge that inspired Claude Monet, now one of the most photographed sights on the Ligurian Riviera. Here, the aroma of freshly baked focaccia accompanies every stroll through the local culture, scenery and traditions.
La sardenaira
Focaccia from the Ponente area
We head to Imperia, where the scent of Piscialandrea mingles with the breeze of the Ligurian Riviera. Thick, soft and bursting with Mediterranean flavours, this traditional focaccia from the Ponente region wins you over at the very first bite with its intense flavour of tomatoes, Taggiasca olives, sweet onions and savoury anchovies. An age-old recipe, born between the sea and the olive groves, which captures the true spirit of Ligurian cuisine. In the western part of the Imperia area and as far as Sanremo, this speciality is reminiscent of the traditional sardenaira from Sanremo, a thinner and crispier version considered by many to be the forerunner of the pizza. As you stroll between Porto Maurizio and Oneglia, past pastel-coloured houses, small harbours and historic bakeries, every corner is filled with the aroma of freshly baked focaccia. To immerse yourself even further in the local culture, the Carlo Carli Olive Museum, dedicated to the tradition of Ligurian olive oil, and the spectacular Villa Grock, a fairytale residence overlooking the Riviera, deserve a visit.
Farinata Bianca
From rustic focaccia to farinata bianca
Nestled between the Savona hinterland and the villages of Val Bormida ies one of the oldest specialities of the Ligurian tradition: the Fazzino di Bormida. This rustic potato focaccia, soft on the inside and lightly golden on the outside, has its origins in country cooking as a simple, hearty dish. Made with wholesome ingredients and often flavoured with onion and extra virgin olive oil, Fazzino captures the most authentic flavours of Liguria. In Savona, on the other hand, the baking tradition continues with the famous farinata bianca, thin and crispy, made with wheat flour and cherished as a symbol of Savona’s street food. Set amongst green hills, small villages and glimpses of the sea along the Riviera delle Palme, this corner of Liguria charms visitors with its historic bakeries, village trattorias and authentic atmosphere. Don’t miss the Priamar Fortress, the charming Savona Ceramics Museum, the spectacular Sistine Chapel and a stroll along the Riviera delle Palme promenade, amidst the sea, palm trees and Ligurian sunsets.
Genoese focaccia
The queen of street food: the fugassa
Golden, fragrant and irresistibly slightly oily: the Genoese fügassa is much more than just a simple focaccia. This historic bakery item, a symbol of Ligurian street food, originated centuries ago in the narrow streets of La Superba as a simple, hearty meal for sailors and dockworkers. Even today, it continues to delight with its soft interior and slightly crisp exterior, enhanced by extra virgin olive oil and coarse salt. In Genoa, focaccia is a real institution, and according to one of the most curious traditions, it is ‘dipped’ into cappuccino at breakfast – a ritual much loved by the people of Genoa. Alongside the classic fügassa, don’t miss the Voltri focaccia– thicker, softer and richer in olive oil – a symbol of western Genoa, along with the versions topped with onions, olives and cherry tomatoes that fill the city’s historic bakeries with their aroma. Amidst the aroma wafting from the historic bakeries and the narrow alleyways of the city centre, it’s well worth strolling through the shops of the historic centre, visiting the Musei di Strada Nuova and the majestic Royal Palace, and letting yourself be swept away by the authentic atmosphere of La Superba.
Focaccia di Recco IGP
Focaccia with Recco PGI cheese, overlooking the sea
In Recco , the aroma of focaccia with cheese mingles with the breeze from the Golfo Paradiso. Ultra-thin, warm and stringy, this famous PGI speciality delights with its two golden layers of pastry enclosing a creamy centre of melted cheese. Enjoying it fresh from the oven whilst looking out over the sea is one of the most popular culinary experiences on the Ligurian Riviera. Every year, the village celebrates this culinary delight with the historic Festa della Focaccia featuring open ovens, tastings and streets filled with the irresistible aroma of freshly baked focaccia. Amidst the beaches, sea views and small villages perched along the coast, the famous focaccette di Megli, soft, deep-fried focaccia-style buns filled with cheese are well worth discovering. It takes centre stage at the traditional local festival. With its seafront walks, aperitifs overlooking the sea and authentic flavours, Recco is an unmissable stop for experiencing the most delicious side of Liguria.
Sarzana sweet focaccia, photo by Pasticceria LaFortezza
Traditional border-region focaccia
Amidst medieval villages, ancient traditions and the aroma of a freshly lit oven, Sarzana is home to one of the most distinctive specialities of the local tradition: the Sarzana-style sweet focaccia. Compact, fragrant and packed with raisins, dried fruit and aniseed, this traditional festive focaccia captures the authentic flavours of borderland cuisine. A simple yet rich dessert, rooted in rural tradition and once enjoyed with sweet wine during Christmas celebrations. As you stroll through historic squares, past shops and along medieval alleyways, it’s well worth visiting the Firmafede Fortress and the Sarzanello Fortress, whilst letting yourself be charmed by the elegant atmosphere of the old town. With the aroma of freshly baked focaccia, independent bookshops and outdoor cafés, Sarzana is the perfect stop for anyone seeking authentic flavours, history and a laid-back atmosphere in eastern Liguria.
