Il Tocco alla Genovese

Il Tocco, or “u tuccu,” is the flavourful Ligurian meat sauce known as sugo di carne alla genovese. It is an essential accompaniment to ravioli and other Ligurian pastas, offering a unique taste and rich aroma. Distinct from traditional ragù, the tocco is made not with ground meat but with a whole piece of meat, referred to as “u toccu” in the local dialect. This meat is slowly cooked in a tomato sauce until it breaks down into tender shreds. This sauce has a history that is both ancient and modern, making it perfect for filled pastas like ravioli and pansotti, as well as for fresh pasta, whether long, short, or ridged. The preparation of the tocco is straightforward, requiring a slow and gentle cooking process,
ideally in earthenware or copper pots.

Its rich flavours have captivated the palates of notable Ligurians, such as Niccolò Paganini, who even wrote a recipe for it, and Fabrizio De André, who referenced it in his beautiful song “Crêuza de mä.” This sauce is magnificent for all occasions, from festive gatherings to everyday meals, enhancing the flavours of the dishes it accompanies, and earning its title as the prince of Ligurian condiments.

To make the tocco alla genovese, start by browning 250 grams of meat in olive oil along with finely chopped vegetables: one small carrot, half an onion, and a stalk of celery. Once browned, pour in half a glass of wine and allow it to evaporate. Next, add 15 grams of mushrooms that
have been soaked in warm water, about 250 grams of tomato paste, salt, and a pinch of sugar to balance the acidity of the tomatoes. Continue cooking over moderate heat, adding the strained mushroom soaking liquid and, if needed, a few tablespoons of broth. Season with bay leaves, pepper, and nutmeg in moderation, finishing with a knob of butter.