The porcini mushroom
The porcini mushroom
The porcini mushroom (*Boletus edulis*) grows spontaneously across the forests of Liguria’s mountainous regions, with subtle variations in flavour and aroma depending on the valley. These mushrooms are typically harvested in forests of chestnut, oak, beech, hornbeam, and ash trees. Porcini found in beech forests tend to be white and elongated, while those from chestnut forests are darker, often with a reddish stem. Historical records, including writings preserved in a women’s monastery in Varese Ligure, document the harvesting and processing of various porcini varieties. The mushroom has also been officially recognised as a local resource.
Insights
The collection and processing of mushrooms dates back to the medieval period: even then, they were a highly valued product, as evidenced by their inclusion among the gifts requested by the Del Carretto family during the Christmas festivities. The fairs held in the valleys were linked to the financial resources of the farmers, who typically appeared at the end of the summer harvests as well as during chestnut and mushroom season. This highlights that mushrooms have been a significant component of the agricultural economy in inland areas such as Sassello, Varese Ligure, and Santo Stefano d'Aveto since the 19th century. Goffredo Casalis notes in his Dictionary that there was considerable export of these mushrooms to coastal towns and Genoa.
Features
Porcini mushrooms can be found throughout the Ligurian inland, particularly in the high Bormida Valley, Aveto Valley, and Vara Valley, extending towards the Taro Valley (PR). Beech porcini are white and elongated, while chestnut porcini are darker with a red stem.
How it's made
The drying process begins by slicing the mushrooms and arranging them on the racks of drying trays for 12 to 16 hours, or on nets in the sun, with frequent turning to ensure even drying. The moisture content of the dried mushrooms must not exceed 12%. Naturally dried mushrooms tend to wrinkle and darken more than those dried in a dehydrator. For optimal storage, dried mushrooms should be kept in a cool place, with a shelf life not exceeding 12 months from the date of packaging. In the 19th century, Augustinian nuns in Varese Ligure prepared dried mushrooms and sold them in beautifully crafted packages made from baskets covered with fine paper, designed to mimic the intricate patterns of lace doilies.
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