Via Garibaldi, the richest street

Stroll through the Via Aurea, the Renaissance heart of the city, among beautiful palaces and works of art

250 metres of pure beauty. Via Garibaldi, formerly Strada Nuova, known in Europe since the 17th century thanks to Rubens' drawings, called the Rue des Rois by Madame de Staël for its imposing buildings, was listed as a “World Heritage Site” by UNESCO in 2006, with the Palazzi dei Rolli. Here, in the 16th century, the rich Genoese families, the “bankers of Europe”, chose to build their representative district. This is also where Palazzo Tursi, the seat of the Town Hall, is located, which is also worth seeing because it houses Paganini's famous violin.

Between banks and museums
Visit the Museums of Palazzo Bianco and Palazzo Rosso where, among frescoes and antique furniture, you will find paintings by Rubens, Van Dyck, Guercino and many other painters. Walking around, you can admire the lavender-coloured façade of Palazzo Nicolosio Lomellino or discover, where there is now a bank, the heroic deeds of the Spinola family, portrayed as ancient Romans. As you ascend the grand staircase of Palazzo Nicolò Grimaldi known as the Monarch (now the seat of the City Hall), you will understand Genoa: a city where architects, given the limited space available, were able to invent unique solutions and create true stage sets.

The old “Red Street” of Genoa
Before the 16th century, the street squeezed between the hill of Montalbano and the tangle of the old town had a very different function. In fact, it was the "postribolo", the street of the brothels, where, since the Middle Ages, sailors and men of all kinds could use, for a fee, the ... "house services", and all absolutely in order, given that the prostitutes regularly paid taxes, the proceeds of which benefited harbour works.

In the park between dream and reality

Pegli boasts one of the most beautiful parks in Italy: the park of Villa Durazzo Pallavicini

In the western part of the city, outside the city centre, in elegant Pegli - the district that in the 19th century was chosen as a summer destination by nobles, bourgeoisie and intellectuals from all over Europe - there is an authentic masterpiece: the park of Villa Durazzo Pallavicini, designed in 1840 by the set designer of the Carlo Felice Theatre, Michele Canzio, at the behest of Ignazio Pallavicini, nephew of the famous botanist Clelia Durazzo. The park surrounding the villa, now home to the archaeological museum, was conceived as an esoteric-Masonic themed itinerary in three acts, intended to amaze visitors, scene after scene.

Descent into Hell and then Paradise
You will start in the classical world of the delightful “Coffee House” and pass through the Arch of Triumph into a rural dimension. The route will take you to the castle with fake ruins, the Captain, the heroes: it is History, the centre of the second act. Finally, purification. From the darkness of the underworld, in the cave, you will reach an authentic Paradise: a small lake with the temple of Diana, the small temple of Flora with its mirrors that refer to infinity, the pagoda, the obelisk. The park was not only philosophical, it was also intended for entertainment: the water games, the merry-go-round with the horses and the iron Ferris wheel were and remain a wonder of yesteryear where one can become a child again.

The Time of the Camellias
If the Villa Durazzo Pallavicino Park is an open-air theatre, then the camellias can be considered the real stars. They have been blooming and withering for a century and a half, always sparking poets’ imagination, the sweet words of lovers strolling along the avenues, and the admiration of those visiting the park.

A Cathedral and the True Saint of the City

Saint Lawrence’s cathedral will unveil its treasures, such as the Sacred Basin, which according to legend is the Holy Grail

Although the Cathedral of Genoa is dedicated to Saint Lawrence, the most loved saint by the Genoese people is St John the Baptist, to whom a monumental chapel is dedicated, in which illustrious sculptors such as Gagini, Della Porta, Matteo Civitali and Sansovino worked between the 15th and 16th centuries. And where the ashes of the Baptist himself are kept.

Gothic or Romanesque?
The Cathedral, built within the 9th century walls to better defend it from Saracen raids, had a troubled life. Over the centuries, the strong Romanesque imprint gave way to the more refined Gothic style, which was more in keeping with the growing power of the Superba, as it is evident from the façade, with its polychrome marble, black and white bands and portal reminiscent of Chartres. The majestic interior, with its many styles, culminates in the Baroque apse basin, a triumph of gilded stucco. In 1941, the roof was devastated by an unexploded bomb, which miraculously spared the load-bearing walls and is still visible inside.

The Treasury Museum and the Cloister of the Canons
The cathedral will unveil its treasures, such as the Sacred Basin, the beautiful Zacharias Cross and other precious works of art, kept in the Museum of the Treasury of St Lawrence. Next to the cathedral, you will find an intimate and surprising place: the medieval cloister where the cathedral canons lived, now home to the Diocesan Museum. Twin columns and frescoed walls are the setting for monumental tombs, paintings and priceless works from Genoese churches, including the spectacular 16th-century Passion Cloths. In fact, the fabric of the cloths is a robust blue from Genoa, or “Blu de Genes”, which gave rise to modern jeans, which were actually born ... in Genoa.

Passion for workshops

More than 40 historic workshops full of charm, a true heritage of art and work

The ancient heart of Genoa has a heritage that cannot be enclosed in a museum. It is a heritage of traditions, families, knowledge and ancient flavours: these are the “historic workshops” of Genoa, which can boast at least 50 years of activity, even though some of them date back to the 17th and 18th centuries! When you enter these places where time seems to stand still, they will satisfy your senses: savour sweets, wines, spices, admire the solid wood furniture, counters, scales. In these active workshops you can buy the best of Genoa.

A workshop for every need
Do you want to cover your sofa with a classy product? The mezzeri of Rivara are just the thing. Do you want to know if an egg is fresh? The egg mirror from the Aresu chicken factory will enlighten you. A tie to give to Dad? Finollo or Pescetto, you are spoilt for choice. Not to mention the fine art of confectionery: Romanengo and its candied fruit, Viganotti and chocolate. Or Cavo, Mangini, Caffè degli Specchi and many other names, for a café that speaks of charm and elegance.

Between Art Nouveau barbers and antique pharmacists
There is also a FAI treasure to discover, the old Giacalone barber shop, a 20th-century treasure with original furnishings: white tiles, polychrome stained-glass windows, mirrors. It is the triumph of Art Nouveau. Outside the historical centre, there is the oldest shop, the Antica Farmacia S. Anna, which you can reach by funicular. Here, since the 17th century, in walnut showcases, in ampoules and apothecary jars, the Carmelite friars have been guarding the secrets of herbs and, even today, they cure with ancient remedies, fully respecting nature.

Santa Maria di Castello

The hill where the Superba was born

2500 years well worn. Archaeologists tell us of the 6th century B.C., of Etruscans, Greeks, Phoenicians linked to the cosmopolitan settlement on the hill of Castello, above the natural inlet of today's Porto Antico, which has always protected men and ships. Legend has it, however, that it was a deity, two-faced Janus, who founded “Janua” in Piazza Sarzano, on this hill.

Much more than just a church
Not far from the square stands a unique complex, the Church of S. Maria di Castello, an ancient Marian sanctuary in Romanesque style that was also a “summer cathedral”. Crossing the threshold, you will feel as if you are entering another dimension, like a museum full of art works, from the 15th century by Giusto da Ravensburg (fresco of the Annunciation) and Mazone to the 17th and 18th centuries by Lomi, Ansaldo, De Ferrari, Piola and many others adorning the altars granted to wealthy Genoese families. You may be intrigued by the Moorish Christ, with the Y-shaped cross, who once had a real beard and hair, added in the Baroque era. When they restored this art work, shaving Christ's head, the faithful no longer recognised him, so a copy had to be made ... with beard and hair.

The timeless cloisters and the museum
In the 15th century, the Dominicans had three beautiful cloisters built and transformed S. Maria di Castello into a centre of cultural excellence, frequented by writers and scholars, as evidenced by the beautiful illuminated choir books and manuscripts on display in the museum and by the paintings. Don't miss Ludovico Brea's stunning “Pala di Ognissanti” (All Saints' Altarpiece) where, among more than 200 saints and worshippers, only one gaze is directed at the viewer: the fascinating and enigmatic gaze of the beautiful Tommasina Spinola.

The Lighthouse

The lighthouse is the symbol of Genoa and a place with a unique view of the Mediterranean, a visit to the lighthouse and museum

The Lighthouse of Genoa, one of the most visited monuments and a symbol of the city, is also a spectacular observation point. Inside is a museum that, along the “riflemen's” rooms and the gallery, tells the story of Genoa, of its Lighthouse and of the maritime and port work with its multimedia films. You will also find the cannon rooms where naval instruments and parts of historical lighthouses are on display. From the promontory that used to stand in the heart of the port of Genoa (which around the 1930s was razed to unite the municipalities of Genoa and Sampierdarena) and from the Lighthouse itself, the view is unique and unforgettable.

A record-breaking lighthouse
Being 77 metres high, the Lighthouse is the tallest lighthouse in the Mediterranean, and the second in Europe. The present building dates back to 1543, but a watchtower already existed 300 years earlier. Today you can visit it starting from the Old Port, walking along the promenade on the quays of the commercial harbour to reach the open air museum in the park and the impressive museum inside, and ending at the panoramic terrace to admire the whole city from above.

Journey to the Genoa of Columbus
While the Lighthouse is the symbol of the city, Christopher Columbus is the most famous character in Genoese history. The man who discovered America in 1492. Tourists have the opportunity to follow a Colombian route that starts from the Columbus House, a stone's throw from Piazza Dante. A photo is a must, as is a visit to the cloister of Sant'Andrea, adjacent to the House. Just a few steps away are the towers of Porta Soprana, from which the can walk on the ancient walls. Not far away is the museum of St Augustine. The last stop is definitely a visit to the Lighthouse.

Nervi: between parks and art

On the edge of the city, where art-rich museums are set amidst a beautiful Rose Garden and unique views

It is certainly no coincidence that in the 19th century crowned authorities of imperial and royal courts spent the winter here. Nervi, an autonomous municipality at the time, is a corner of paradise, due to its mild climate and unique urban design, characterised by large parks and ancient villas that form the Nervi Parks - venue of the last two editions of Euroflora. Here you will find the Nervi Museum Centre: Gallery of Modern Art , Frugone Collections, Luxoro Museum and the Wolfsoniana.

Visit to Gallery of Modern Art
The Gallery of Modern Art (GAM) can boast the richest public selection for the en-plein-air painting of the Grey School, with works by Tammar Luxoro, Alfredo D'Andrade and Ernesto Rayper; one of the most extensive selections of Rubaldo Merello's Divisionist work; two famous and imposing canvases by Plinio Nomellini; works by Giulio Monteverde and Arturo Martini with the poignant, life-size terracotta La Convalescente.

Scent of Roses
The yellow of the “Doragold”, the white streaked with pink of the “Reucar” or the bright red of the 'Rebell’ roses. Colours and scents mingle in the Villa Grimaldi Rose Garden, in the green heart of Genoa Nervi. Strolling curiously through the paths of the rose garden, you will read the exotic names of the magnificent roses, lovingly cared for by Genoese gardeners who inherited the flowers from the owners-participants.

Beauty beyond the gates
Nervi is not only parks, villas and museums. You can walk along the most romantic promenade in Liguria: the Anita Garibaldi promenade, overlooking the sea, where you'll find little restaurants, glitzy bars and lots of beauty at the recently renovated marina.

Genoese-style “fast food”

Chickpea Farinata and focaccia, a successful combination for gourmets in search of strong and simple flavours

Hot and steaming, chickpea farinata is one of the gastronomic symbols of Genoa. A poor dish by tradition, chickpea farinata can be defined as the regional “fast food”: quick to prepare (cooking in wood-fired ovens takes about seven minutes), it allows an almost complete meal at a low price. This historical food was invented centuries ago in the “sciamadde” - as the shops with an oven are called - of the historical centre of Genoa. Certainly in Genoa it has always been like this: prepared with chickpea flour, rigorously baked in a wood-fired oven, in a round tin-plated copper pan, at very high temperatures (around 350 degrees).

Who invented chickpea farinata?
Historical sources indicate that a decree for the sale of “scripilita”, as it was called at the time, was issued in 1400. We certainly owe the composition of a veritable hymn of chickpea farinata (kept in the municipal archives) to an 18th century Ligurian gourmet.

A different focaccia in every bakery
No lard nor olive residues, only extra virgin olive oil with a long preparation. These are the ingredients of the true Genoese “fugassa”', the most famous Ligurian food that has ancient origins and traditions. In Genoa, you will find a focaccia strip in every bakery, baker’s shop and, of course, bar. Don't miss the versions with onion, olives, rosemary and even sesame. In the city you will literally be surrounded by focaccia, because focaccia accompanies so many moments of the day and the Genoese people have an established habit: they enjoy it with cappuccino or coffee instead of brioche. The stronger version also applies: focaccia and white wine.

Porto Antico, third millennium

Between past and present, where the Aquarium is reflected in the sea between the medieval piers

It is a magical and fascinating world that you can discover by visiting the Aquarium of Genoa. A world in which the stars are dolphins, sharks, fluorescent jellyfish, penguins and 12,000 other animals from around the world. A visit for anyone passing through Genoa is a must and no child or adult can resist its charms. The Aquarium is also a space that fits into the redevelopment of the Old Port, which took place during the Columbus celebrations in 1992. It is an area that represents both the past and the present of this city: medieval and Renaissance architecture alternates, almost making its way, between the Magazzini del Cotone, the Bigo, the old warehouses and ancient cranes, the remains of the port railway and, of course, the Aquarium.

The signature of the archistar
Based on a project by Renzo Piano, in 1992, the areas of the old port (once fenced off by a huge gate that is still visible today) were reclaimed and “stitched up” to the city and its historic centre. Today they are converted spaces that house universities, museums, cinemas, shops, offices, the Aquarium, the Via del Mare, the Bigo and the Nave Italia. In the area of the Embriaco bridge you will find Piazza delle Feste, which hosts events and shows in the summer. It is worth walking along the piers and old moorings, which have now become a fantastic seaside promenade. Follow the route to the Isola delle Chiatte, in the middle of the sea, where you can see Genoa and its sea from a unique viewing angle.

The Port of the Past
One of the itineraries in the historical and ancient area starts from the church of Saint Mark. Not far away is Porta Siberia, the entrance to the pier, a masterpiece of medieval architecture. The fortified inner part is characterised by a monumental three-arched portico. The section of the defensive sea wall is known as Mura di Malapaga, the title of the famous film in which Jean Gabin roamed the alleys of post-war Genoa.

Via del Campo and surroundings

Genoa is the city of singer-songwriters: Tenco, Paoli, Fossati, Lauzi, Bindi and, of course, Fabrizio De André

“Every time you are out there, you realise that it is a city mostly to be regretted”, this is how Fabrizio de André once described his relationship with Genoa. And certainly this city, because of its history, its structure, the ethnic and religious melting pot on every corner, has always inspired poets and writers and, from the 1960s onwards, songwriters. There are many places in the city where the atmosphere of the singer-songwriters can be felt, but certainly one address that cannot be missed is the Via del Campo 29 Rosso space, where there is a small but significant exhibition space.

Creuze and attics
The creuze di mare (sea alleys) and the caruggi (narrow alleys) of the old city sung by singer-songwriter Fabrizio De André, as well as singer-songwriter Gino Paoli's attic by the sea in Boccadasse are very evocative places, without forgetting that, as singer-songwriter Ivano Fossati sings, “he who looks at Genoa knows that Genoa can only be seen from the sea”. Even a Piedmontese singer-songwriter in love with Genoa like Paolo Conte put the city into verse, as did singer-songwriter Lauzi with “Onda su Onda”. Then there are also other singer-songwriters like Bindi, who loved Bogliasco, and Tenco, also from Alessandria who became a Genoese. Unforgettable and evocative places are the benches in Via Cecchi, on which the names of the singer-songwriters are now written; as well as the sciamadde in Caricamento and the port.

The caruggi poet
Paul Valery, a French poet who was born in Paris in 1870 and died in 1945, loved the old town and anticipated singer-songwriters by half a century. He dedicated beautiful verses like this one to Genoa: "concentrated odours, icy smells, drugs, cheese, roasted coffee, delicious finely burnt cocoa with a bitter fragrance...Upwards the alleys climb adorned with ribbons of bricks and pebbles".

The Palazzi dei Rolli

Since 2006, the “new streets” and noble buildings have been part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site

Genoa has been the European capital in finance, politics and culture. So much so that historiographers defined the period from 1528 (the year Andrea Doria took office) to the beginning of the 17th century as “The Century of the Genoese people”. At that time, the city was the protagonist of a splendid and rich season. Genoa did not have a monarch, but a doge elected by the oligarchy that governed the Republic. From that golden age remain above all the great noble buildings, which were called the “Palazzi dei Rolli”: dating from the late Renaissance and Baroque periods, they were ordered in official lists - called “Rolli” - and thus “suitable” to host the most important State visitors. This urban space with 42 palaces is now part of the Rolli system, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2006.

The New Roads
The most impressive palaces are located on the axis from Piazza Fontane Marose to Via Balbi, passing through via Garibaldi - which is the most beautiful street to visit - and Via Cairoli. Most of the buildings are in an atrium-courtyard-gallery sequence and richly decorated inside. They express a single social and economic identity that inaugurates the urban architecture of the modern age in Europe.

The Rolli Days
Some of the palaces can be visited all year round because they are public buildings or home to National Galleries or Museums, such as Tobia Pallavicino (Chamber of Commerce), Nicolosio Lomellini, Tursi (Genoa City Council), Palazzo Bianco, Palazzo Rosso, Palazzo della Meridiana, Palazzo Reale, Palazzo Spinola di Pellicceria. Others open a couple of times a year during the Rolli Days, which take place in early May and early October.

Genoa, a vertical city

Ascents and descents, panoramic esplanades, lifts, funiculars and lots of poetry

The verses that the poet Giorgio Caproni dedicated to the Castelletto lift are unforgettable: “Genoa and its lifts, anxiety, heartache” - “When I go to paradise... I will go there in the Castelletto lift”. And certainly what strikes the traveller today, as it did in the 19th century, is the verticality of Genoa, a city that has stolen space from the hillside for centuries, offering in exchange fantastic places such as the Castelletto esplanade, which can be reached by the two lifts that start behind Via Garibaldi. If you want an advice, go up at sunset time to enjoy a breathtaking panorama.

The funicular
This all uphill connection is emphasised by the Zecca Righi funicular, which starts at Largo Zecca (at the end of Via Cairoli, a continuation of Via Garibaldi). The funicular climbs first through a tunnel and then between houses, to the final station at Righi, on the Genoese hill, where paths lead to the ancient Forts of the city and where the panorama is unique. Worthy of mention is the Madonnetta station, which opens onto the Sanctuary of the same name where the famous nativity scene signed by master Anton Maria Maragliano is kept.

The rack railway and lift
If you get caught up in the hustle and bustle of this continuous up and down, then also enjoy the funicular railway ride up from Piazza Portello to the little church of Sant'Anna and the Ancient Pharmacy of Sant'Anna (run by the Discalced Carmelite Friars and unchanged since its foundation in 1700). Other historical, vertical and unique means of transport are the Granarolo rack railway, which starts near Principe Station and the Montegalletto lift/rack railway, which leads from Via Balbi to the Albertis Castle with its beautiful panoramic gardens and Ethnic Museum.

The Maritime Museum

The exhibition space located in the old Dock, the heart of the port, is a place to see and visit

In the large halls, ships and seafaring environments are reconstructed, taking us back in time with the men, stories and objects of everyday life on board. Over 6,000 square metres illustrate the maritime evolution of the port and the city. In the building, the oldest surviving of those that made up the old Galee Arsenal, a 17th century Genoese galley, 42 metres long and 9 metres high at the stern, has been reconstructed after three years of historical research. After so much beauty - and after an interactive journey on the steamships that brought migrants to the Americas - enjoy the Mirador terrace on the top floor of the Museum, a glass parallelepiped designed by architect Guillermo Vazquez Consuegra: you will have a 360-degree view of the city and the Port of Genoa.

The face of Columbus
From the rooms dedicated to Christopher Columbus we move on to explore the Arsenal, visit the armoury in the dockyard, and witness the arrival of cargoes of silver from the Americas aboard galleys. It is worth lingering over the world's most famous portrait of Christopher Columbus: the one attributed to Ridolfo, son of Domenico Bigordi, known as Il Ghirlandaio (1483-1561) which constitutes the image that over time has established itself as the “face” of the Navigator.

Between Andrea Doria and the submarine
The tour ends with a permanent exhibition on the Andrea Doria, the most beautiful ship in the world, as well as the most famous and ill-fated. Once out of the large pavilion, here is the final surprise: a visit to the Nazario Sauro, a submarine-museum, which can be visited in the dock in front of the Galata museum, where you can “immerse” oneself in the fascinating submarine environment.

Church of the Gesù and Church of San Donat

Two churches, two paintings, two masterpieces compared

What do the Baroque church of the Gesù and the medieval church of San Donato have in common? Apparently nothing. Centuries and styles separate them. The first one, the splendid Jesuit church with frescoes, trompe l'oeil perspectives, vaults that look like theatre wings, angels sprouting from all sides, gold everywhere, exaltation of the Counter-Reformation Church. The other one, bare and simple San Donato church, made of promontory stone and wooden trussed ceiling, reminiscent of a parish church perched on a mystical hill, shrouded in the mist of the Val d'Orcia. Yet something unites them: two Flemish painters from the great North.

Adoration of the Magi...
Cloaks embroidered with meticulous detail, a background reminiscent of Leonardo's sfumato, in a small side chapel of the Church of San Donato is kept as an authentic treasure: the very precious triptych of the Adoration of the Magi by Joos Van Cleve from 1515. Painted at the behest of Stefano Raggi, portrayed in the painting with his martyr patron saint, it depicts the three kings in adoration of the Child.

....and the Circumcision in the Church of the Gesù
About two hundred metres further up is the Church of the Gesù, a building with a rigorous, almost bare façade. Enter and you will understand the Genoese people: they do not love outward appearances, but reserve their treasures for those who know how to go beyond appearances. Approach the high altar and contemplate the huge canvas of the Circumcision, Rubens' masterpiece from 1605: the mystical light, the glory of the angels, the Madonna's gaze looking away from the suffering Child for the Jewish rite, Heaven and Earth, the fleshy bodies, the intense colours, the movement, the pathos. It is the apotheosis of the Baroque.

The city of sport

Swimming pools overlooking the sea, a sailor's paradise, hiking and mountain biking

It is no coincidence that Genoa has been declared European Capital of Sport for 2024. Here, activities are practised at different levels, there is no shortage of opportunities and the area offers undiscovered places in every season. There are also some neighbourhoods that are sports and tourist citadels such as Albaro Arena Village, a stone's throw from the Corso Italia promenade and the most prestigious tennis courts. This is dominated by a sports hall with gyms and an indoor swimming pool, as well as the beautiful large Olympic pool. All around is a strip lined with some 20 restaurants, lounge bars, ice cream parlours and sushi bars. In short, sport and leisure.

Go where the wind takes you
The Genoese people definitely love sailing. The city is home to the Italian Yacht Club, the oldest and most prestigious in Italy. Great champions started sailing here and, practically every weekend in autumn and winter, a regatta takes place. Sailing schools are many, as well as diving centres: because Genoa is also the capital of diving. Moreover, in the better equipped bathing establishments, it is easy to rent a surf, kite, windsurf, sup or canoe.

Trekking and biking
Genoa is also one of the few cities that allows trekking in the mountains or mountain biking without leaving the city limits and maintaining a breathtaking sea view. Just take a funicular, lift or public transport to find yourself on the heights, where there is a dense network of trails for all tastes. Also worth mentioning is the departure from Genoa Quinto of the Colombian path, which crosses the Apennines to take you to Terrarossa di Moconesi, the birthplace of Christopher Columbus' family.

Ducal Palace

From centre of power to centre of culture

Returned to its former splendour a little over 30 years ago, steeped in centuries and history, Palazzo Ducale is the “Palace” par excellence: current cultural symbol of the city, venue for Genoa's most important exhibitions, conferences, events, but also a destination for Genoese and tourists looking for trendy places to have an aperitif. The “Ducale” - from “dogale” - Palace was named after the first Doge of Genoa, Simon Boccanegra, who from 1339 made the palace the power centre of the Republic of Genoa. Here, the Doges and the Senate arranged the government and strategies of the Superba.

Many Doges, One Queen
The splendour of the Palace is linked to two architects. In the 16th century, Vannone was entrusted with the task of realising a grandiose project: the Salone del Maggior Consiglio (Great Council Hall), the staircases, the atrium, the porticoes. Then, after the fire of 1777, it was Simone Cantoni's turn to restore its splendour, with the current white, neo-classical façade. And who are those sullen gentlemen in chains on the top cornice? The peoples subjugated by the Genoese! Everything spoke of magnificence in this veritable fortress, enclosed by another wing, the “curtain”, later torn down. But the jewel remains the delightful Doge's Chapel dedicated to the Virgin, with the title of Queen of Genoa.

Of Crimes and Punishments. The tower and its secrets
The oldest part includes the Grimaldina tower, which was converted into a prison. There you will discover the stories of its prisoners: Dragut, a fierce pirate, the Vachero, traitor to the fatherland, the painter Mulier called the Tempest, accused of the murder of his wife, who also painted in his cell and, last but not least, the most famous, not handsome, but charming, a real “Don Juan”, Nicolò Paganini, arrested... for seducing a minor.

The scent of Genoa

Pesto made with PDO Genoese basil is the olfactory column of the city. But also a good excuse to sit in a restaurant

With trofie, corzetti, mandilli de saea, trenette, testaroli and fortunately also in minestrone, pesto is back in fashion also on menus. The types of fresh pasta change, but what always remains is his majesty pesto. Because when you stop at any trattoria or restaurant in Genoa, you can be sure that you will always find a pesto-based first course among the à la carte proposals. Pesto is made with PDO Genoese basil, which “grows in the tegghia and perfumes your homes”, as Camillo Sbarbaro wrote in his poem addressed to Liguria.

From Prà to the market
Around Genoa, the undisputed motherland of basil is undoubtedly Prà, whose hills just a few metres from the sea have an ideal climate for its growth. From Prà comes the “Genoese” definition of basil. If you want to discover this delicacy before it becomes pesto, take a walk to the Mercato Orientale in Via XX Settembre, in the city of Genoa, with its colourful and fragrant stalls. Or walk down Via Canneto il Lungo, in the historic centre, a street full of shops selling fruit, vegetables and, indeed, basil.

In the mortar
The natural end of Genoese PDO basil is in the mortar (strictly marble with pear wood pestle). So goes tradition, which has survived modernisation and electrical appliances. Chopping machines are undoubtedly a convenience, and one does not always have the time or inclination to pound in the mortar, but real pesto still has to be made with the strength of one's arms. The difference, after all, can be tasted. In Genoa, every two years, the Pesto World Championship is held at Palazzo Ducale with competitors arriving from all over the world.

St. Matthew Square

The medieval neighbourhood of the Doria family: an architectural jewel a stone's throw from Piazza De Ferrari

Before the 16th century, when the Genoese aristocrats decided to create their representative district in Strada Nuova (now Via Garibaldi), each noble family had an area of influence, in the historical centre, that grew around their patrician palaces. San Matteo is the best preserved example of the neighbourhood of the Doria family, who made the history of Genoa. The Doria family collected taxes, so they chose St Matthew (the former publican of the Gospel, who was a tax collector) as their patron saint.

The Abbey and the Square
To St. Matthew, Martino Doria dedicated the church in 1125, later rebuilt in Gothic style with the typical black and white façade. Later, Andrea Doria ordered a restyling of the interiors, with frescoes by Cambiaso and Bergamasco and a copy of Michelangelo's Pietà by Montorsoli.It is precisely in this square that you can understand the evolution of Genoa from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance: the arcades of the 13th century Lamba Doria palace, the still visible Gothic arches of the arcade closed in the 15th century to gain space, the Renaissance overhangs and the 16th century palace of Andrea Doria.

A family of princes and murderers
The unbeatable prince Andrea Doria, who by favouring an alliance with the Spanish made Genoa's fortune, never wanted to live in the centre, preferring his palace built outside the walls (Palazzo del Principe).It is also said that in the Saint Matthew area, the spectre of Branca Doria - “banished” to Hell among the traitors of guests by Dante for having had his father-in-law killed - sometimes wanders about trying to enter the church, where a column bears a macabre bloodstain.

In the rooms of history

Palazzo del Principe, former home of Andrea Doria between the works by Perin del Vaga and a lush garden

The “Prince”, who gives his name to the grandiose building to the west of Via Balbi and next to the railway station, is Andrea Doria, the greatest commander of Genoa's Maritime Republic. Originally from Oneglia, in the 16th century he led the city during the so called “El Siglo de Los Genoveses”. A beautiful palace, still owned by the Doria Pamphilj family, but open to the public. There are many works to see, starting with the frescoes by Perin del Vaga, the great Florentine pupil of Raphael, who was the most important artist at the court of Andrea Doria.

The Palace between past and future
Among the many discoveries made during the last restoration were the “grotesque” decoration of the vault of the staircase of honour under 19th-century frescoes, and masterpieces such as the portrait of Andrea Doria by Sebastiano del Piombo, “Andrea Doria in the guise of Neptune” attributed to Bronzino, “The Triumph of Andrea Doria”, and “Lady in Red Dress” attributed to the Genoese Bernardo Castello. Part of the Dorias’ rich textile heritage is back on display in the Palazzo del Principe: the famous series of tapestries depicting the Battle of Lepanto against the Turks

A highly imaginative garden
The garden, inaugurated at the beginning of the third millennium, is a huge balcony overlooking the sea of Genoa. We can imagine Andrea Doria and his court strolling along the alleys, in front of the beautiful fountains and basins. Who knows how many important decisions were made among the flowers and flowerbeds that once lapped the sea. Of the marble fountains, most of which are still preserved today, the most impressive is the “Fountain of Neptune” sculpted by Taddeo Carlone in 1599.

The Great Wall of Genoa

An impressive piece of defensive engineering now joins a park on the city's doorstep

On a clear day, the system of Genoese fortifications built and expanded between the 16th and mid-19th century is outlined on the crown of mountains surrounding Genoa, with the continuous and jagged outline of the city walls, the towers and the imposing masses of the large solitary forts. The city walls cover some of the most evocative and unknown territory in Liguria, linking the forts together.

The Urban Park of the Walls
Protected by walls and forts, on the heights, a magnificent meeting place between the city and nature develops. The classic route starts at the upper terminus of the funicular (Righi) and continues towards the Castellaccio and Sperone forts, at an altitude of 450 metres. Already from here, the view opens up over the entire city and nature is sovereign. The excursion can continue towards the 19th-century Forte Begato, dominating the Polcevera Valley; or inland, to reach the small Forte Puin and the magnificent Forte Diamante, located at 660 metres above sea level, the highest and most isolated in the Park.

Along the tracks on the mountain ridge
It is a piece of historic “isolated” railway history, for a unique route with tracks that climb hills with gradients of 45 per thousand, not unlike the famous Peruvian Andes train. The Casella train, connected to the forts system, departs from the centre of Genoa and arrives in the heart of the Apennines after travelling through the watershed of three valleys: the Valbisagno, the Valpocevera and the Valle Scrivia. An itinerary through greenery and ancient villages: romantic and unique, like the carriages that still recall the style of 1929, the year this narrow-gauge railway was inaugurated.

Creuze de ma

Discovering the secrets of Boccadasse, the most romantic seaside village

“Once upon a time there was a cat...”, singer-songwriter Gino Paoli wrote and sang, looking at the village of Boccadasse. And that cat is still there: on the little beach, along the dry harbour, inside the old fishing boats. A thousand cats are the memory, the eyes, the symbol of this wonderful corner of Genoa. The favourite place for lovers and incurable romantics. It is no coincidence that in literary fiction Livia, the eternal fiancée of Commissioner Salvo Montalbano - a character created by Camilleri - lives here. Often those who come to Boccadasse for the classic souvenir photo do not know that every “creuza de ma” (sea alley) - and the memory goes to Fabrizio De Andrè - and every stone has something to say. Today it is a great place to spend an evening in one of the many small bars overlooking the small cove. There is something for everyone, from the walk-in ice cream to the starred restaurant.

Unscathed through history
After the great urban transformations of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, only the village of Boccadasse miraculously remained intact. An ancient maritime centre and symbol of a life in symbiosis with the sea. Wandering through the salty-smelling streets paved with cobblestones and bricks, up to Capo di Santa Chiara, one cannot help but think of the song writers, not only Genoese, who were inspired by Boccadasse.

Castles and churches
Towering over the village is the neo-medieval Turcke Castle of 1903, an early Genoese work by Gino Coppedé. You return to the small beach and find the colourful fishing boats. Then there is the church of St. Anthony, much loved by the inhabitants: inside it is preserved a processional chest by Maragliano and many maritime ex-votos, silent witnesses to the passing of time and popular devotion.

Rubens vs Van Dyck

A Flemish derby in Genoa, a city where the works of the two masters are many

The pupil and the master, 22 years apart, the same homeland, Flanders, and a common destiny: Genoa, at the time the financial and commercial capital of Europe. Two great artists playing at home in a sort of artistic derby of the Lighthouse town. But the playful competition is only in our eyes. The two artists were friends and it is only up to us to choose which style we like best.

The forerunner of the Baroque
Rubens, one of the world's masters of Baroque painting, arrived in Genoa in 1604 and it was love at first sight with the city. His unmistakable style, florid women, convivial atmospheres, the shapes and colour of his fabrics, which seem real. You can find his paintings in the Genoese museums (from Venus and Mars to the Equestrian Portrait of Gio Carlo Doria) while two are in plain sight in the Church of the Gesù: “The Circumcision”, a milestone for the birth of the Baroque school of painting in Genoa, and “The Miracles of Saint Ignatius”.

The beautiful Antoon
When handsome and already famous Van Dyck arrived in Genoa, he was welcomed as a favourite pupil of Rubens and immediately realised what the Genoese aristocrats desired: self-celebration. The nobles who competed for him are portrayed in their grandeur: sumptuous clothes, elegance, pearls, gold embroidery, everything had to tell the world about the wealth of the Spinola, Balbi, Brignole Sale families that you can admire in the Strada Nuova museums. Van Dyck knew how to understand the psychology of each person and render with a few strokes their looks, either intelligent or mischievous, or melancholic. And one of these looks (Pauline Adorno) evidently stole his heart, as their forbidden love affair caused a scandal at the time.

Palazzo Ducale and Via Balbi

The Road to the University and the National Gallery with Van Dyck, Tintoretto, Guercino, Luca Giordano

Just a stone's throw from Principe, the railway station in Genoa where the large statue of Christopher Columbus stands, is Via Balbi, which is worth a careful walk. Here you will find buildings that are part of the Rolli of Genoa, that is the list of palaces owned by noble families, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to many faculties of the University of Genoa. That is why it is the youngest street in the city, at least according to the average age of its regulars. Along the way is Balbi Durazzo Palace, known to everyone as Palazzo Reale (Royal Palace), because it was bought by the Savoy family. It is home to one of the city's two National Galleries.

Masterpieces and Hall of Mirrors
The paintings displayed in the rooms include works by the best 17th century Genoese artists, together with masterpieces by Anton Van Dyck, Tintoretto, Guercino, Luca Giordano and Ferdinand Voet. Beautiful and unique is the Hall of Mirrors, for which the galleries of the Colonna and Doria Pamphilj Palaces in Rome and the Galerie de Glaces in Versailles were taken as models. Today it is a marvel of architecture and the most scenic room in the palace, already used by the former owners of the Genoese residence as a venue for exceptional banquets during visits of sovereigns and ambassadors.

Wash tubs in the city
Genoa’s great originality lies in its ability to showcase many urban diversities, very close to each other. It so happens that in Via Balbi, about halfway along the route and after such a sumptuous palace, one crosses a small square overlooked by old buildings in bright colours and truogoli. This is the Piazza dei Truogoli in Santa Brigida, a place out of time, where the ancient wash tubs (truogoli) where the washerwomen used to go can still be found.

Palazzo Spinola di Pellicceria

A house-museum in the heart of the historic centre

A house-museum in the heart of the historic centreHere you will find paintings that are worth a trip. You will feel emotions to be felt in silence, in adoration before a masterpiece, however small. This will happen in the palace that the Spinola family donated to the State in 1958, now a museum: Palazzo Spinola di Pellicceria. The painting in question is “Ecce Homo” by Antonello da Messina: the emotional charge of Christ's gaze will not leave you untouched.

The magnificent palace and national gallery
Built in 1593 by Francesco Grimaldi, in the 18th century Maddalena Doria transformed the building into a representative palace. It is one of Genoa's best-preserved historical residences, with Genoese baroque furnishings, Chinese porcelain, original fabrics and paintings. The decorations of the halls are the work of important fresco painters of the 17th-18th century Genoese school, including Lazzaro Tavarone and the author of the Galleria Dorata (a sort of Versailles in miniature) Lorenzo De Ferrari. There are paintings by the greatest Genoese painters of the time such as Bernardo Strozzi, Valerio Castello, Gregorio De Ferrari, Domenico Piola and Grechetto, as well as artists from Lombardy, Emilia and Naples. The Flemish presence is very important, with masters of the calibre of Van Dyck, Joos Van Cleve and an impressive Rubens with his equestrian portrait of Gio Carlo Doria.

Historical furniture: a 19th century Genoese kitchen
You will also find a large 19th-century kitchen with marble sinks, a food hoist connected to the dining room, a hot water boiler and a spectacular ronfò (typical Genoese brick kitchen). On the ground floor are the sedan chairs, an unexpected yet indispensable means of transport for the nobility in the cramped city centre.

The square under the stars

Nightlife, curiosities and encounters in Piazza delle Erbe, beating heart of the movida

"One walks in the teeming life of these deep paths as in a sea, in the black bottom of a strangely populated ocean". It is the French poet Paul Valery who offers the most apt image of Piazza delle Erbe, the heart of the old town, where bars, restaurants and craft shops are concentrated. Through the characters of the square now known to regulars, students and people of all ages, this corner of the sky and history comes alive and colourful. A heterogeneous public united by the desire to have fun, strolling among the tables and in front of the shop windows that have enlivened the heart of the square for years.

Aperitif and meeting places
The journey to Piazza delle Erbe starts from the venues, which have often become a real cult for Genoese and tourists alike. Each venue offers a variety of international cocktails and local spirits. All accompanied by a relaxing and winking atmosphere. Descending, scampering and dribbling among the dozens of frequenters who traditionally crowd the tables, alleys and entrance, one can sip cocktails, enjoy appetizers and craft beers, and make many encounters.

Unmissable surroundings
From Piazza delle Erbe, it's off to other food and wine forays, from Via Porta Soprana, via Canneto il Lungo and, of course, to the new area of the Luzzati Gardens. You turn the corner and get to Via Ravecca, which in recent years has become another nightlife and restaurant street. But Piazza Matteotti and Palazzo Ducale are also a stone's throw away, as is Via San Lorenzo. Within a few hundred metres, one encounters all kinds of locations and a thousand opportunities to enjoy the wonderful atmosphere of the alleys by night.

Shopping in the city

Via XX Settembre, Via Roma, Via Luccoli and the M.O.G. market Shopping Fun

Every city has its own place for “taking strolls”. Via XX Settembre is certainly, in this sense, the most suitable street for those who want to stroll, meet, have a chat. On Saturday afternoons, if you want to meet some old friends or make new acquaintances, the arcades of the ancient Via Giulia are ideal terrain for all kinds of meetings. After all, while Via Roma is the street of the big brands, Galleria Mazzini is the fashionable meeting place behind the Opera and Via Luccoli is the shopping street in the caruggi, Via XX Settembre remains the street with the greatest variety of shops.

Via Venti by night
To tell the truth, in recent years, Via XX Settembre has lost some of its lustre for revellers. The Porto Antico exploit has changed the habits of night owls. Recently, however, the street has been on the upswing and there is no shortage of interesting venues, either along the street or in the neighbouring streets. For the restaurant trade, mention must be made of Zeffirino, an ambassador of pesto frequented by all the VIPs who have passed through Genoa (Clinton, Bush, Sinatra, Pavarotti, to name but a few).

The Flavour Market
The Mercato Orientale in Via XX Settembre is a little Genoese casbah, where basil meets Levantine spices and Chianina meat goes hand in hand with sea bream. It is now much more than just a market in which to shop. In 2019, they opened the M.O.G. market, where the flavours sold on the wooden and marble counters are processed and become precious dishes to be enjoyed in the 11 gastronomic corners.

Dreaming of the Andes

The Genoa-Casella Railway, for almost a century on the mountain ridge

An isolated piece of historic railway history, for a unique route with tracks that climb hills with gradients of 45 per thousand, not unlike those of the famous Peruvian Andes train. Yet Casella's little train, now run by AMT, leaves from the centre of Genoa and arrives in the heart of the Apennines after travelling through the watershed of three valleys. An itinerary through greenery and ancient villages: romantic and unique, like the carriages that still recall the style of 1929, the year this narrow-gauge railway was inaugurated. The journey takes 55 minutes. A long track between the blue of the sea and the green of the hinterland.

The route from the window
You board in the Genoese station, just a few steps from Piazza Manin on the outskirts of the city. The rails cross the ridges and keep passengers with a view of the sea for a long time. On the first section, seated in bell époque carriages, you can enjoy a panorama that reaches as far as Portofino. The train whistles again and you will get to the Sardorella station, nestled among the chestnut trees. Then it's up to Sant’Olcese, an ideal gastronomic stop for fans of the renowned salami. Then the wagons continue zigzagging through the meadows of Busalletta, skimming past the Roccioni di Molinetti, climbing slightly again to the Crocetta d'Orero pass, which leads into Valle Scrivia and where the 24km Museo Diffuso della Ferrovia Genova Casella was opened in 2021.

Sea view trekking
Not far from the Manin station, there is also the upper terminus of the Righi funicular: already from here, the view opens up over the entire city and nature reigns supreme. The excursion can now continue towards the 19th-century Forte Begato overlooking the Polcevera Valley, or inland to the small Forte Puin and the magnificent Forte Diamante. It is a paradise for trekkers and mountain bikers.

The Museum of Emigration

In a magical place like the Commenda, a unique story is told

Housed in the Commenda of San Giovanni di Prè, the new Mei - Museo Nazionale dell'Emigrazione Italiana (National Museum of Italian Emigration) - is the latest addition to Genoa's museum centres. It retraces - with documents, audiovisuals, and works of art - the history of emigration that is central to the very history of Genoa, a city strongly linked to emigration: millions of Italians left from here bound for the Americas, Africa, Asia and Australia. A museum on the move, as suggested the theme of the journey that the visitor will undertake among the images and stories of the millions of Italians who have left Italy.

From Genoa to the world
For a century, men and women leaving everything - work, home, affections - arrived at the port of Genoa to embark on a journey with no return. The life stories of migrants are told through primary sources such as autobiographies, diaries, letters, photographs and through newspapers of the time. Even the location chosen, the iconic 12th-century building Commenda of San Giovanni di Prè, is rich in meaning: for centuries it has been a place of welcome and a point of passage for people in transit, from pilgrims during the crusades to 19th-century emigrants.

The exhibition route
The route is spread over 3 floors, divided into 16 areas built around the life stories of the emigration protagonists: individual experiences are presented to the visitor through primary sources such as autobiographies, diaries, letters, photographs, newspapers, songs and music that accompanied the emigrants. Documents merging into a single narrative, showing all the facets and details of the migration phenomenon.